Who is the first person that you meet when you arrive at a restaurant?
Usually, it’s not the chef.
Have you ever thought that you spend the most of your lunch or dinner with the food and wine service?
It’s the only link between you and the kitchen. There can be the most awarded chef to cook for you but you will not feel satisfied if the food and wine service is not experienced. Maybe because you didn’t feel cuddled during the meal or you didn’t like the wine suggested.
I will discuss and analyse with three recognised industry professionals why the world of food and wine service is so important to the dining experience.
Are you ready?
Let’s start!
The world of food and wine service: let’s ask three professionals
It’s a fundamental role in every restaurant, not only for the Michelin-starred.
Knowledge is very important for people that want to work in this world, from the beginning. It’s not only a matter of taking the plates from the kitchen to the tables.
There is a school in Italy that educate new professionals for food and wine service. It’s called Intrecci and the programme of study is very diverse. Marketing, public speaking, and agronomy are just some of the topics studied.
Food and wine service has to be ready for every situation!
It’s time to ask our special guests some questions. They are Roberto Anesi, Vincenzo Donatiello, and Eros Teboni.
Roberto Anesi
Roberto is the son of a hotelier, and fell in love with the restaurant life before turning 16 years of age. This is the reason Roberto decided to open a restaurant with his family in Canazei in 1994. He manages the restaurant with his wife Manuela who has supported him from the very first day of setting out on this path.
Roberto felt the need to train in a professional setting. Thus he started to study several courses, including the AIS (Associazione Italiana Sommelier) in particular. He graduated in 2004, then became the official taster and speaker for AIS in 2008. Roberto also started to take part in competitions that recognise and reward excellent customer service skills.
In the meantime, Roberto gained more and more experience. He conducted several wine tastings for both AIS and the Province of Trento. He attended courses by the Master of Wine Institute and the WSET (Wine & Spirits Education Trust). Travels are fundamental for Roberto. They allow him to create a huge network of professional relationships, working with important personalities. He won the competition for the Best Italian Sommelier in 2017.
However, all these commitments haven’t distracted Roberto from his restaurant – El Pael – where he spends thousands of hours, offering suggestions to his guests, pouring them wine, sharing stories about his territory, and offering simple and unique hospitality which is always professional and experienced.
Wine. Let’s get straight to the point. What’s your must-have wine for your wine list?
The wines that must never be missing are those from the ‘territory’. They’re the wines that tell stories from the past, the efforts of the previous generations, the beautiful traditions and also the shared moments of celebrations. So, the territory is the first thing that has to emerge in a wine list according in my opinion.
Skills. There is someone who studies engineering and then decides to move into the food-service industry and who was already born into this trade. Both roles have passion in common, but it’s not enough. Which are the essential skills for someone who wants to start in the food-service industry?
In the past, food service has been a very difficult field to deal with. I know it because I was born into, and I grew up, in this background. During the 1970s and the 1980s, through very high operating revenues and quite low spending, the food-service industry underwent a profitable period. Since the 1990s, and continuing today, the situation has changed. A good restaurant owner now has to carefully manage the financial situation of his business. Revenues have been reduced more and more. Because of this we cannot lose sight of our operations.
The core business is hospitality and to put the customer at ease despite everything. If you want to be a good restaurant owner you should be ready to make sacrifices. If you don’t have this aptitude or if you only think this is an easy way to earn money, then you are thinking wrong. During my 30 years of experience, I have seen all sorts of strange things. I could keep going for hours telling you what I saw, but for sure those who were able to make sacrifices and minimised the damage to their business, did eventually see good results. The restaurant owner who doesn’t have this aptitude will sooner or later be destined to give up.
Empathy. Most of the time you don’t know your guests, and they don’t know you. But for several hours, you will be together in the same room. They could have requests, doubts or curiosities, and it is your job to help them. Why is it so important to empathise with customers and what difference can it make?
Empathy is the core-term. It’s what I always ask of my restaurant staff. In the restaurant we have to catch every single shade. Some customers could be celebrating a joyous occasion yet at the table next to them could be a couple arguing. At every reserved table, the customer is communicating a message by their actions. It’s up to me and my staff to understand their unspoken and spoken messages and to offer them a pleasant experience.
The best way to get in tune with a customer is to listen to him or her, but first of all to observe them. According to service, you have to be methodical but also aware that every customer is different in their needs. The second core element for me, and I keep telling it to my staff, is the heart: to do something with love and passion, to have the will to surprise. Whether a restaurant is big or small the aim is the same. We can surprise both in a Michelin star restaurant and in a trattoria. I’ve been working in the restaurant business for 32 years and I can say with certainty that a restauranteur becomes a psychologist, sociologist, social/welfare worker, couples counsellor. It is important to observe.
Water. It is increasingly becoming important in this field. In fact you can attend a class for water tasters. Some restaurants have even created their own water list. Do you think this is only a passing trend or it could be a big change?
For sure, it is a good idea to have two or three different labels in a restaurant, but I think that a water list could be a characteristic element for high-level restaurants. I don’t think it could be useful for “everyday” food service though. Personally I’ve not examined in detail the issue because of a lack of time and because it would not be easy to find this kind of master class, as I live in the mountains. Knowledge is a core element though for those people who work in the catering industry. If I had the chance to attend this kind of class I would do it, but I’m not sure that this element would allow my restaurant to stand out.
COVID-19. We are facing an extraordinary moment in time, from which we will hopefully come out with increased awareness. The food industry will be among the economic sectors suffering heavy consequences due to Coronavirus. What will be the first thing to do as soon as we can get back to normality?
It is not easy to forecast what we will do once we get back to “normality” after this pandemic, because I suppose there will be a lot of important changes. There will be a reduction in consumption and a decrease in the spending power of our guests. So along with that the price list of the restaurant will be reduced. If possible we will increase the offer of wine by the glass, and we will also find solutions to allow our customers to feel good and not necessarily let them pay to much.
Vincenzo Donatiello
Vincenzo Donatiello, born 1985, comes from the Vulture region, the Northern area of the historical territory of Lucania, corresponding to the modern Basilicata, in the South of Italy.
He is a professional sommelier who started his early career in the food industry. He developed his professional skills between two regions: Puglia, where he attended the Hotel Management School in Vieste, and Romagna where he had his first job opportunities along the Adriatic Riviera.
In 2009 Vincenzo joined the team of La Frasca, in Milano Marittima, formerly a Two Michelin star restaurant, under the direction of Gianfranco Bolognesi. This represented only one of the many experiences with Michelin star awarded restaurants, which also included Pascucci al Porticciolo (One Michelin star) in Fiumicino, Rome and at Piastrino (One Michelin star) in Pennabilli, Rimini.
Since February 2013 Vincenzo’s been part of the crew of the recently Michelin Three stars featured restaurant Piazza Duomo in Alba, with the Chef Enrico Crippa.
Vincenzo has received several awards during his career, among which are Best Italian Junior Sommelier in 2004, Best Romagna Sommelier in 2010, Personality of The Year 2013 according to Italia a Tavola, Best Maitre for 2016 Touring Guide and Maitre of The Year in the 2018 Italian Restaurants Guide by L’Espresso.
Wine. Let’s get straight to the point. What’s your must-have wine for your wine list?
The one that we really love, that excites us, that steals one’s heart. You can’t skip such a choice because it denotes personality, research, curiosity, the desire not to stop at what we have already seen, heard about from others and tasted.
Start. Nowadays the Chef is at the centre of the food industry ecosystem and all other elements are spinning around him or her. Why do you think the food and wine service is now underestimated and how could its role be enhanced?
Our profession has lost its sheen in recent years, while personality chefs became rising stars thanks to mass media. Luckily today there’s a new generation of professionals who is shedding new light on front of house roles due to a rediscovered energy, targeted communications and expertise connected to extraordinary interpersonal skills. The time has come for laying down new key points for this profession, as far as it has evolved. There doesn’t yet exist a truly modern training for the new waiters. Me, I personally felt the need to set out in a coming book, the elements which I think may characterise the future of the front of house jobs. Once the basics are laid down, there will be the urge to better communicate to the wider audience what actually our profession is along with its elements of culture and identity, and not looking at waiters only as a rebound job.
Mise en place. In some restaurants, we can find 5 forks, 4 knives, 3 spoons, 2 dessert forks and 1 dessert spoon, in others just 1 fork and a knife. Other places do not skimp on glasses (often not matching the wine served). What are the factors which determine the most suitable mise en place?
I think the main aspect is represented by personality: each space could and should think about a customised mise en place which has to match the restaurant-style. No matter how modern, classic, opulent or essential a restaurant may be in its outlook, it should welcome us and with the help of table service, it should make us feel that we are in the right place.
Michelin-starred. When you are working for top-level restaurants, you inevitably have to face several kinds of clients. You may find the curious type that comes once, as well as devoted clients who come several times throughout the year. Then you can meet the complaining kind or people that aspire only to take a picture with the Chef. What is the client of a Michelin-starred restaurant looking for?
You already set the answer in your question: there’s no straight reply. Each client comes with different expectations, different experiences in the fine dining sphere, and we should be able to figure out in a few seconds what are his desires and to comply with them, shaping them on what we have to offer. The fundamental aspect is respecting the customers in the broadest way possible: respect for their own spaces, for their curiosities, for their expectations and opinions.
COVID-19. We are facing an extraordinary moment in time, from which we will hopefully come out with increased awareness. The food industry will be among the economic sectors suffering heavy consequences due to Coronavirus. What will be the first thing to do as soon as we can get back to normality?
Exactly coming back to it, to normality. The essential aspect will be not to change who we are and the things we have been doing up until the very last day before the emergency measures were put in place. We will all be more aware, from clients to all the professionals involved in food production, restoration, tourism and agriculture. There will be greater attention on fundamental aspects, for concrete propositions; there will be reduced space for evanescent projects and for anyone who has little to say about his offer to the client.
Eros Teboni
Born in Vipiteno in 1990, he attended a scientific high school, then studied viticulture and oenology at the University of Trento.
In 2011 Eros got his first Sommelier Diploma at Tiroler-Sommelierverein, the sommelier association of Tyrol (Austria), the first national diploma. He began participating in competitions and preparing with the Austrian Sommelier National team. In 2015 Eros obtained the first two levels of Court of Master Sommelier, where he received an international Sommelier Diploma, the Certified Sommelier.
Eros worked abroad from 2010 to 2017, in Austria, Germany, and France in popular restaurants and cellars. He then returned to Italy, joined FIS and started working in South Tyrol, in two famous hotels of the region, for two years. In June 2018 he had the opportunity to represent Italy in the WSA Best Sommelier of the World competition, in which he took first place. Eros currently collaborates as a consultant for many cellars and hotels in Italy and Austria. Besides this, he also presents around sixty tastings around the world, in which he talks about the world of wine, and tries to explain the different styles of wine.
Wine. Let’s get straight to the point. What’s your must-have wine for your wine list?
The wine that should never be missing on a menu is “bubbles”, mainly the classical method. Lately I have been drinking a lot of South Tyrol, a reality that is developing well in our region, giving birth to good examples of this category. Franciacorta and Champagne are a must-have, since I am a fan of this stylistic. I also often deal with foreign products, from Germany and Austria, and some Cava.
Reception. Sometimes you have to keep clients waiting, and you may offer them a drink to ease the wait. At other times, clients are directly accompanied to their table, without even taking their jackets. What are the first things to do when welcoming a client?
When a client arrives, it is our duty to make him or her feel comfortable. Clients have to relax and prepare for the amazing dinner they are about to eat. Surely the speed in welcoming them and offering them an aperitif, with a wide range of alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages, is fundamental to making them feel good, and to give them the sensation of being looked after.
Staff. There is the possibility of having one person for each task, from bringing the bread to pouring wine (there might be a different person for water as well). How many people should be in a restaurant, and for which tasks?
As far as the restaurants where I worked are concerned, the answer is as many people as is needed. Organisation is fundamental to perform a perfect service. There are people who bring the dishes, others who serve them, or take care of water, wine, those who deal with reception first, and then help during service. Everyone has their allotted task, and if everyone knows what to do and how to do it clearly – and the team understand and show this – the dinner will be perfect.
Food. Having studied and being aware of what is being proposed to customers is important. This doesn’t imply that the staff should have the same skills as the chef, otherwise they would be in the kitchen. However, it is important to understand the difference between fried eggs and an omelette, or knowing how to briefly describe the preparation of a dish. How should the dining room staff be prepared?
Communication between the dining room and the kitchen is fundamental, the staff must know exactly what they are serving and how it is prepared. Of course this is also in the chef’s interest: since waiters bring the result of his or her work. Chefs themselves, or someone delegated by them, must explain perfectly how each dish is prepared, form the ingredients and their origin, to their preparation and cooking method.
COVID-19. We are facing an extraordinary moment in time, from which we will hopefully come out with increased awareness. The food industry will be among the economic sectors suffering heavy consequences due to Coronavirus. What will be the first thing to do as soon as we can get back to normality?
I am preparing for it, I have at least 15 tastings to schedule, all the ones that got cancelled during March and April. In my opinion, we will live differently after this pandemic, maybe we will give more importance to the small things that we used to consider irrelevant. I think that thanks to the strength and determination of the professionals in this field, such as producers, sommeliers, winemakers, wine merchants and restaurateurs, the world of wine will manage to get through this difficult moment and restart as soon as possible.
Your next time at a restaurant
Now you have a more clear idea about the important role of food and wine service. As you can understand, it is not an easy role but one that requires great training and experience in order to be successful and to please clients.
I want to say a big thanks to Roberto Anesi, Vincenzo Donatiello, and Eros Teboni for their availability and for shedding some light on the secrets of this trade.
What about you!? What’s the first restaurant you’ll be going to when we can get back to normality?
Let me know by leaving a comment.
Cheers
Simone
